French Terrines
Modern Takes on a Traditional Dish

Bonjour et bienvenue to La Marmite!

This month is all about la terrine, a classic French dish which has been completely re-looked to accommodate modern tastes and trends.

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What's Inside a Terrine?

You may think of a terrine as being a sort of fancy French meat loaf. Indeed, a traditional terrine, might be made from a variety of meats, including some rather unusual cuts. A terrine de campagne might include pork and veal, along with chicken livers and a number of seasonings.

These days though the terrine has been thoroughly modernized, and you are just as likely to find vegetables or even desserts under the lid. The one constant in these recipes is the covered earthenware dish, also called a terrine, in which they are made. But even that has strayed somewhat from the traditional oblong shape, to include ovals, squares, and serving sized terrine dishes.

When creating terrines, keep these points in mind:

• A terrine is compact, layered and typically chunky. There will be distinct bites of ingredients within a slice.
• A terrine is usually served cold and is almost always better made a day in advance. Personally I think this is an advantage when it comes to entertaining.
• If you don't wish to invest in a terrine dish, a large Pyrex loaf pan works just as well for most recipes.
• Many times you will need to press the ingredients together as it chills. A handy way to do this is to place a similarly sized and shaped dish on top of the uncovered terrine, then place something heavy in the top dish.

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Salmon Vegetable Terrine

This recipe can be made with frozen chopped vegetables. If you have the time and inclination, feel free to substitute fresh vegetables, the terrine will only be all the better for it. Do cut the vegetables into small pieces though and limit yourself to about three cups - there is only so much room in a terrine dish!

Baking in a bain marie can be a bit tricky if you are not used to it. If you feel unsteady about moving a heavy pan of simmering water in and out of the oven, just place the dishes in the oven and then fill the outer one with water. When it comes time to take them out of the oven, use a small ladle to empty some of the water before lifting the dishes out of the oven. A deep roasting pan with easily grasped handles makes the whole operation much easier.

Terrine de saumon aux petits legumes

• 1 pound salmon filets
• 1 pound mixed frozen vegetables (carrots, green beans, and peas or similar)
• 10 large eggs
• 1 cup crème fraîche (or substitute heavy cream)
• 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
• 1/4 cup chopped chives
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper

Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 2 quart terrine dish.

Bring a large pot of water to boil and add the still frozen vegetables. Cook for 2 minutes, then remove from heat, rinse with cold water and drain completely.

Whisk the eggs together, then stir in the crème fraîche, drained vegetables, chopped herbs, salt and pepper. Pour 1/2 of this mixture into the prepared terrine.

Place the salmon filets in one layer on top of the egg mixture. You may need to slice the filets to fit to the dish. Pour on the remaining egg mixture.

Place the terrine in a deep oven proof dish and fill the outer dish with water. The water should come to a level just about even with the terrine dish. It may be easier just to place the dishes in the oven and then fill up with water from there.

Bake at 400°F for 1 hour.

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours, but over night is best.

When ready to serve, slide a knife around the edge of the terrine, then turn out on to a serving dish. Serve cold slices accompanied by mayonnaise if you wish.

Makes 12 slices.

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Chocolate Raspberry Terrine

This dessert terrine is a smashing combination of taste sensations: chocolate mousse, raspberries, and almond brittle. Making the almond brittle was a revelation for me - so simple and they would make a wonderful addition to so many desserts.

If you can't find fresh or frozen raspberries, try this recipe with peeled and chopped pears.

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 2/3 cup sliced almonds
• 8 ounces quality dark chocolate
• 7 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 eggs (at room temperature)
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 2 cups fresh (or frozen and thawed) raspberries

Prepare a 6 cup terrine dish by lining it with plastic wrap.

Make the almond brittle by melting the 1/2 cup sugar in a small sauce pan on low heat. Swirl the pan every once in a while, but don't stir the sugar as it melts and turns brown. As soon as all the sugar is completely dissolved, remove from the heat and stir in the almonds. Immediately pour and spread the mixture onto a Silpat or similar non-stick surface. Allow to cool to room temperature, then use a rolling pin to break the brittle into small pieces.

As the almonds are cooling, melt the chocolate in a double boiler. When it has melted, stir in the butter, one tablespoon at a time, then remove from heat.

Meanwhile, separate the eggs into two large mixing bowls. Beat the egg whites until stiff and set aside. Beat the yolks with the 3 tablespoons of sugar until light colored and fluffy - about 2 minutes. Stir the melted chocolate and butter into the egg yolks and sugar. Stir just until blended. Gently fold in the egg whites just until combined.

Pour 1/2 of the chocolate mousse into the prepared terrine dish. Layer with the raspberries, then the candied almonds. Top with the remaining mousse. Cover with plastic wrap and place a weight on top, then refrigerate for 12 hours or overnight.

To serve, you can turn the terrine out onto a serving dish and slice, or just scoop from the terrine dish.

Makes 6 servings.

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Reader Suggestion

Bob from Indiana wrote recently with a request for menu suggestions. Excellent idea Bob and one I intend to get started with right away.

When planning a menu, strive for balance in the overall meal. Balance of flavors and calories, but also balance in effort. If you are showcasing one menu item, do give yourself a break on the others. Many times all that is needed to round out a great recipe, is a simple tossed salad, a loaf of good bread, and a piece of ripe fruit for dessert.

Deciding what to serve with a cold salmon terrine can be a little tricky. It is quite substantial and protein rich, but the fact that it is cold and usually served as a starter, makes it not quite a meal unto itself. I like to couple it with a main course of a creamy vegetable soup and a baguette, then end with something light and easy for dessert.

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What's new at EFF?

• For anyone looking for a few more calories in their life, here is a primer on French desserts.
• An introduction to French cheese. If you're planning a visit to France, it can be useful preparation to learn about some of the better known varieties of cheese before you arrive. Knowledge always enhances appreciation. You might also like to have a look at this list of AOC cheeses.
• Add flavor to your soups, stews, and sauces by learning how to make a bouquet garni.

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Next Issue:

That's it until next month kind readers.

For the next issue, due out on March 25th: a French Easter menu.

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A bientôt and remember to enjoy your food!

Your friend in France,

Kim